Avoid damp mopping unless necessary, as too much moisture can damage the floor.
Protect the floor from water spills by placing rugs near sinks and other high-risk areas.
Use furniture pads under chairs and tables to prevent scratches, and remember to replace them regularly.
Use high-quality maintenance products to refresh and protect the surface.
What is the difference between engineered, laminate, and hardwood flooring? 
Hardwood flooring is a broad term that includes solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, and wood veneer floors. Engineered hardwood consists of multiple layers, with a top layer of wood like oak and lower layers typically made of spruce or pine.
This layered structure helps reduce wood’s natural expansion and contraction with seasonal changes and improves material efficiency.
Using spruce or pine in the core layer provides better stability for use with radiant heating and is more stable than plywood.
Laminate flooring is not made of real wood. It has a printed design layer, often paper and resin, applied to a core made from high-density fiberboard (HDF).
Where are the different types of flooring best suited?
Wood floors, crafted from natural materials, bring warmth and character to a space—both visually and underfoot—enhancing the ambiance of any room. Laminate floors are not as warm to the touch as a real wood floor.
Real wood compared to laminate can add value to the resale price of a home.
What is the difference between 1-strip, 2-strip, and 3-strip flooring?
Engineered wood floors come in different designs, with a wear layer made from either a single wood piece (1-strip) or multiple strips across its width (2-strip or 3-strip). The number of strips influences the floor’s overall look and feel.
As a general guideline, 1-strip and 2-strip designs work well in spacious rooms, creating an elegant, seamless appearance, while 3-strip flooring can add texture and depth to smaller spaces. Ultimately, the choice is all about personal style and preference.
Lastly, all Kahrs 3-strip floors have the same design features as our premium planks but at a fraction of the price point.
What does the wear layer mean?
An engineered floor is made up of multiple layers. The top layer is called the wear layer and is typically made from hardwood, such as Oak, Walnut, Ash etc. The wear layer is treated with either lacquer, oil, or wax.
The underlying layers are usually made from pine.
Which surface treatment is the most durable and resistant to spilled liquids?
Where you plan to install the floor—and how much wear and tear it will face—determines the best surface treatment. A lacquered finish is the most common choice for residential spaces as it makes the floor easy to clean and maintain.
An oiled finish, on the other hand, enhances the wood's texture and grain while enriching its natural color. When choosing a finish, also consider the wood's hardness and whether the floor may need to be sanded and refinished in the future.
For floors in high-traffic areas, such as public spaces, we recommend oil-treated floors without added pigments, as they can better withstand wear.
All wooden floors, whether lacquered or oiled, should be protected from water and other liquids. Any spills should be wiped up immediately to prevent damage.
Can I prevent my wooden floor from changing color over time?
Wood is a natural material that gradually matures into its natural color—it cannot be completely prevented. The color change occurs most rapidly in the beginning.
To achieve a uniform appearance, avoid placing rugs on the floor during the first few months after installation.
How should I maintain my wooden floor to make it last as long as possible?
To keep your Kährs wood floor looking beautiful for years, follow a simple care routine. Regular vacuuming or dry mopping prevents scratches, while occasional damp cleaning with a well-wrung mop and a pH-neutral cleaner removes dirt without damaging the surface. Avoid excessive water, as moisture can affect the wood.
For extra protection, use Kährs Lacquer Refresher or Satin Oil to maintain the floor’s finish and enhance durability. If needed, re-lacquering or light sanding can refresh the surface. Place furniture pads and entrance mats to reduce wear and clean up spills immediately to prevent stains. With proper care, your Kährs floor will stay timeless and elegant for decades.
Which type of wood floor lasts the longest?
The durability of a wood floor depends on the level of wear and how well it is maintained.
Tips for Longevity:
Lifespan by Floor Type:
Engineered floors: With proper care, they can last for decades. Depending on the thickness of the wear layer, they can be sanded up to four times, extending their lifespan significantly.
Oiled floors: In public areas, non-pigmented oiled floors perform best when regularly cleaned and maintained with oil, as they are easier to restore and can handle heavy traffic effectively.
By following these care tips, wood floors can stay beautiful and durable for many years.
How much weight can a hardwood floor support?
Kährs hardwood floors are made to withstand everyday use and foot traffic, making them durable for most household activities. While a hardwood floor installed as a floating floor can handle moderately heavy furniture, large fixtures like kitchen islands or wardrobes should be secured to the subfloor instead of being attached directly to the wood to allow for natural movement.
There’s no issue with fixed loads like kitchen islands if the floor is fully bonded to the subfloor; one benefit of bonding our floors is that the Woodloc 5S joint makes it easy to either bond the floor to the subfloor or float it.
Should I glue or float my hardwood floor?
There are advantages to both:
Gluing: Gluing your hardwood floor means you don’t need underlayment, and there will be minimal expansion, so no breaks at doorways are required. You can place heavy direct loads on the floor. It also provides the lowest thermal resistance value when using an underfloor heating system.
Gluing usually takes longer to install than floating, may be more expensive overall due to added adhesive and labor, and is harder to remove than a floating floor.
Floating: Installing your hardwood floor as a floating floor is quicker, easier to remove in the future, and typically more cost-effective overall compared to gluing.
Floating floors require underlayment and need expansion gaps (at least 10 mm) at doorways and around the perimeter of the room. Be cautious with heavy point loads like kitchen islands, which require space left for expansion.
Refinishing worn floors:
Over time, hardwood floors may show wear, but they can be renewed with re-coating or oil treatments. Depending on the finish—satin, matte, or oiled—the floor should be thoroughly cleaned before applying a fresh coat. Deep refinishing involves sanding down to bare wood and applying a new surface finish, restoring even heavily worn floors to their original condition.
Does Kährs have its own maintenance products?
Yes, Kährs offers its own range of maintenance products, including:
Cleaning products
Microfiber mop heads
Lacquer refresher
Easy to use Touch-up kits
Maintenance oils
How can Kährs offer such strong warranties on its floors?
We take great pride in our products, which feature high-quality factory-applied surface treatments and a wear layer that can withstand multiple refinishing processes.
This, combined with a comprehensive care and maintenance program, allows Kährs to provide an extended wear warranty, ensuring long-lasting performance and customer satisfaction.
How do I install Kährs wooden flooring with the Woodloc® joint?
On the Kährs website, you’ll find detailed instructions along with video tutorials that demonstrate the installation process step-by-step for different situations.
Before you start:
Read the instructions carefully before beginning.
Watch the instructional videos to understand the process.
Make sure the subfloor is clean, dry, and level.
Prepare the necessary tools, including spacers, a tapping block, and the Kährs locking tool if using Woodloc® 5S.
By following the instructions provided, you’ll achieve a smooth and professional result.
Can I install my wood floor on any type of subfloor?
Kährs wood floors can be installed on most subfloors as long as they are dry, level, clean, and firm. Carpeting should be removed, and concrete subfloors must be free of sawdust or organic residues to prevent moisture-related issues. In cases where the subfloor is concrete, over a humid space, or includes radiant heating, a vapor barrier is required to protect the wood. Adding an underlayment enhances comfort and reduces sound. Proper preparation ensures a stable, long-lasting wood floor.
The subfloor must always be firm, level, clean, and dry.
General Guidelines:
Mineral-based subfloors (e.g., concrete) require a vapor barrier between the subfloor and the wood floor.
Many underlayment materials come with a built-in vapor barrier
Wood-based subfloors typically do not require a vapor barrier unless you are installing radiant heating—in which case a vapor barrier is always necessary.
Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to ensure proper installation and long-lasting results, but using the correct underlaymentis the first step.
What tools do I need to install flooring?
Modern flooring requires only a few tools for installation.
Essential Tools:
Saw – For cutting boards to fit.
Measuring tape – To measure lengths accurately.
Pencil – For marking cuts.
Carpenter's square – To ensure straight cuts and angles.
Tapping block – To gently tap boards into place without damaging edges.
Spacers – To maintain the correct distance between the floor and walls for expansion gaps.
Kährs locking tool (if installing a floor with Kährs Woodloc 5S joint)
With these basic tools, you’ll be prepared for a smooth and professional installation!
Is there any difference in installing 1-strip, 2-strip, or 3-strip flooring?
The installation process is generally the same for 1-strip, 2-strip, and 3-strip flooring. However, there are a few important considerations:
Mix boards from different packages before starting to ensure a natural and harmonious color variation across the floor.
This step is especially important for 1-strip flooring, as it has larger, more noticeable planks that highlight color and grain patterns.
Inspect each board before installation. Boards with visible defects that could have been identified beforehand should not be installed.
Acclimate flooring in the room it will be installed into and leave it in the packaging, stored flat.
Following these steps will help achieve a balanced and professional result.
Can I install my floor without thresholds or moldings?
The general rule is one room, one floor.
This means that in areas such as doorways, you should include an expansion joint (movement joint) to allow the floor to expand and contract naturally.
Why is this important?
Wood floors react to temperature and humidity changes by expanding or contracting.
Without an expansion joint, the floor may buckle or warp over time.
Thresholds or transition moldings are commonly used to cover these joints while maintaining a seamless look.
Are there different installation techniques for solid wood floors and engineered floors?
Yes, the installation techniques differ between engineered floors and solid wood floors:
Engineered floors
Most engineered floors use a click-joint system (glue-free), making installation easier and faster.
They can be installed as a floating floor, meaning they are not fixed to the subfloor.
Solid floors
Solid floors are often glued in the joints or nailed down.
It’s also common to glue solid floors directly to the subfloor for added stability.
Always follow the manufacturer’s specific installation instructions to ensure the best results for your chosen flooring type.
Does a professional installer need to lay my floor for the warranty to be valid?
No, it is not required to hire a professional installer.
The warranty remains valid even if you install the floor yourself, as long as you follow Kährs installation instructions carefully during installation. But it is important to note that a professional can give advice on subfloor leveling, humidity, expansion, and take care of the details that make a difference such as undercutting doorways, etc.
How much waste, or extra flooring, should I account for?
You should plan for approximately 5% waste when calculating the amount of flooring needed.
This extra material accounts for:
Cutting and trimming during installation.
To maintain appropriate stagger between end joints.
Future repairs or replacements.
For more complex layouts, such as herringbone or stairs you may need to account for around 7%-10%.
Won't the floor lift without gluing?
No, you do not need to glue a standard Kährs floor, at the joints or to the subfloor.
Kährs floors with the Woodloc® joint system are designed to be installed as a floating floor due to their stable multi-layer construction which ensures a secure and durable fit. These floors may also be glued or stapled down. In addition Kährs Made in the USA flooring with tongue and groove system must be glued or stapled.
Key installation tips to prevent lifting:
Stagger the joints – Maintain a minimum 20" end-joint offset between rows to enhance stability.
Lay in the lengthwise direction – In narrow spaces, always install the flooring parallel to the room’s length to prevent buckling.
Following these guidelines ensures the floor remains level and stable, even with climate variations.
Does the floor need to be stored indoors before installation?
Yes, the floor must never be stored outdoors.
Pre-installation storage guidelines:
Keep the flooring in its original packaging and do not open the packages until installation begins.
Ensure the relative humidity (RH) in the room is between 30–60%.
Both the room temperature and the floorboards should be at least 59°F.
Following these steps ensures the flooring adapts to the environment, minimizing the risk of warping or gaps after installation.
What should I consider if I want to protect the floor after installation before other work is completed?
If additional work is planned in the room where the floor has been installed, follow these steps to protect it:
Cover the floor with a moisture-permeable material, such as paper.
Do not tape directly onto the wood floor. Tape should only be applied to the protective covering to avoid damaging the surface.
Many tapes adhere so strongly to the floor that the finish may peel off when the tape is removed.
The longer the tape remains, the greater the risk of it bonding more firmly to the finish, increasing the chance of damage.
Proper protection ensures the floor remains in pristine condition during additional construction or renovation work.
Can I install a wood floor in my sunroom?
Yes, but care must be taken to provide consistent humidity and temperature controls in this area.
Can I install a wood floor in my kitchen?
Yes, and we recommend that any spills be cleaned up as soon as possible.
When installing an oiled floor in a kitchen, we recommend applying 2–3 coats of additional oil after installation to enhance durability in kitchen areas.
Can I install underfloor heating under any type of flooring?
Most wooden floors are suitable for underfloor heating with both wet systems and electric systems, but there are exceptions:
Beech, Canadian Maple, American Hickory and American Hard Maple are not recommended as they expand and contract more than other wood types with temperature changes.
Important Guidelines:
Always follow the installation instructions provided by both Kährs and the underfloor heating supplier.
The surface temperature of the wooden floor must never exceed 27°C/80°F to prevent damage.
By adhering to these recommendations, you can safely enjoy the warmth and comfort of underfloor heating beneath your wooden floor."
Do I need a special underlayment for installing underfloor heating?
Yes, there are two key considerations for the underlay when installing underfloor heating:
Vapor Barrier – Install a vapor barrier between the subfloor and the wooden floor to protect against moisture.
Low Thermal Resistance – Use an underlay material with low heat resistance to minimize heat loss and ensure efficient heat transfer.
Why is my floor lifting and what can I do about it—both to prevent it and if it happens?
Seasonal climate changes naturally cause movement—expansion and contraction—in wooden floors. That’s why floors should never be installed directly against fixed structures like walls or tiles.
Prevention:
Leave an expansion gap (movement joint) around the edges of the floor to allow for natural movement.
In narrow areas, such as hallways, install the boards lengthwise to reduce stress.
Always stagger the joints by at least 19.7 inches in each row to improve stability.
Moisture Issues:
Floors can also lift due to moisture, either:
Cleaning with too much water, or
Moisture rising from below if a vapor barrier is missing.
To prevent this, use minimal water when cleaning and ensure a vapor barrier is in place for mineral-based subfloors.
A lifted wooden floor is often caused by moisture imbalances or improper installation. First, identify the source—excess humidity, lack of expansion gaps, or water damage. If moisture is the issue, improve ventilation or use a dehumidifier to stabilize conditions. If the floor lacks proper expansion space, carefully trim the edges near the walls to allow for natural movement. In severe cases, affected boards may need to be removed and reinstalled. For the best results, consult a flooring professional to assess and resolve the issue effectively.
Can I get the color code for my stained floor, for example, to match my staircase?
No, unfortunately, we cannot provide the exact color code for your floor.
This is because the final shade of your floor is the result of a combination of factors:
The raw material (wood type and grain).
The staining process used in production.
Differences in post-treatment methods, paint types, and application techniques.
As a result, on-site finishing may differ from the factory finish, making it difficult to achieve an exact match.
What we recommend is taking a sample of your floor to a professional paint matching company. They can provide an accurate color stain for you to test before applying.
Where are Kährs floors manufactured?
Over 85% of our primary production takes place at our own factory in Nybro, located in Småland, Sweden, where it has been since 1857.
Kährs also has factories and partners in the EU, United States and Turkey to support production and meet global demand.
Are Kährs floors environmentally friendly?
Yes, Kährs wood floors are a sustainable choice, designed with both your home and the planet in mind. Engineered wood floors are among the most eco-friendly flooring options, as they optimize raw material use, are made from renewable resources, and are fully recyclable. At our primary production facility in Sweden, nothing goes to waste—unused wood is repurposed into biofuel for energy.
Kährs also offers over 180 floors certified with the Nordic Swan Ecolabel, a mark of environmental excellence. We’ve been committed to sustainable production and quality management since the 1990s, ensuring our floors are both beautiful and responsible.
What should private homeowners and public spaces do with their old wooden floors when replacing them?
Kährs floors are known for their high quality and often have many years of life left, even if they are replaced.
Reuse Options:
Many Kährs floors have click joints that allow them to be taken apart without damage, making it possible to reinstall the floor in a different location.
Recycling Options:
If reuse is not possible, the old floor can be brought to your local recycling center.
Wooden floors are either crushed or chipped and used to make particleboards.
Materials that cannot be recycled are sent to energy recovery plants where they are turned into energy for heating and electricity.
This helps ensure that Kährs floors stay sustainable, even at the end of their lifecycle.